Dining review: The Hatted Hound at the Bridgeview Hotel, Willoughby

NORTHSIDE NEWS
29 NOV 11 @ 12:01AM BY JANE SOUTHWARD

Good food and children can mix at The Hatted Hound, writes Jane Southward.

Most of the large television screens are gone. Table service is back and the dining room has been refurbished.

The Bridgeview Hotel has had a makeover and brought in chef Olivier Massart (Gecko, Belgian Beer Cafe) to improve the menu.

Massart, whose Epoque Belgian Beer Cafe is in receivership (although the Belgian Beer Cafe is still trading), took over as head chef about six weeks ago, with a mission to turn it into a local brasserie.

The restaurant has been renamed The Hatted Hound and Massart, a father of two children under 13, is doing his best to reclaim the family market the hotel lost when it went upmarket six months ago.

The Bridgeview had been known as a popular place for Channel 9 personalities who would pop in for after-work drinks, as well as groups and families keen on the children’s menu and the chance to watch a few sporting battles all at once, courtesy of the multiple TV screens in the dining room. Sporting clubs would also gather to discuss and watch special games.

Olivier acknowledges that the move upmarket put families off. He is now determined to attract them back and is planning an under-12 eat-free deal on Sundays and free chocolate fondue, as well as a children’s menu. And he is convinced that quality and children can mix.

One thing that has worked since the makeover is the $25 one-course lunch menu (or you can try two courses for $35 and three courses for $44).

With the refurbishment, the stained glass windows and banquette with red cushioning at the western end seem particularly appealing.

The food does not disappoint. For entree, we were offered two choices, as the lamb salad was unavailable (irritating when there are just three options.) We pass on the Greek-style vegetable soup and three of us share some octopus that has been grilled and tossed with half a dozen butterflied prawns and slices of speck that had been marinated in apple cider and sugar, some greens and sliced cherry tomatoes. It is a light starter - perfect for sharing. The seafood is juicy and not overcooked.

The three mains sound obvious but are cooked very well and are generous in size. There is pan-roasted, corn-fed chicken. The plate is a picture, with roasted walnuts, poached prunes and wilted spinach tossed with sliced mushrooms. It is the pick of the mains.

The char-grilled scotch fillet comes with a huge amount of mash and asparagus spears, and is topped with a mild peppercorn sauce.

A fillet of salmon is dressed up with a vinaigrette that packs a punch, thanks to star anise and orange. The sauce is magnificent.

The Hatted Hound, Bridgeview Hotel, 580 Willoughby Rd, Willoughby. Ph: 9958 4145. W: www.bridgeviewhotel.com.au.